In the Arkyslab GitHub Repository, there are 10 3D files which lets you print out a the full TR-595E. Still, I do not know anyone who can print four of the items in clear. My solution would be to mold and then re-cast them in clear. To be honest, I am still not so familiar with 3D printing and I have problems overcoming 3D software. Heck, I’ve been using SketchUp for so long, it was very difficult to unlearn and go with Blender. Even during the Amiga days, Imagine and Lightwave was beyond me.
GO 3D WITH JLCPCB
While waiting for JLCPCB to 3D print for me, let’s go over some of the important files. This must be a recent new Service from them as I normally see the PCB Service and SMT Assembly options. Like all the uploaded files, they will be inspected, and inform you of any potential design specs or manufacturing problems. However, if you designed a wrong track or shorted the board, that’s on you.
But for the 3D section, they will check your file first before asking for payment. And I have to assume the 3D printing section is located elsewhere because they mentioned separate shipping charges. Still, I have made quite a few designs with JLCPCB and I am very happy with them. This will be my first order with 3D printing.
MAIN BODY
If you are familiar with constructing these clam shell Tricorders, you would understand they consist of two main components. They are the Main Body and the Lower Flap, held by a pair of hinges.
When it comes to the MkVII, the MkIX/X or even the OSX, the main body is usually made from resin. And during the Roddenberry Shop days, clear vacuum-formed plastics. The main body is sealed with a bottom cover. You use four tiny screws to secure that cover which is also a serviceable hatch for the electronics.
The TR-595E is no exception.
This the is the TR-595E’s main body. There is a reason why I love the Playmates MkVII. Its plastic hinges looked robust. But for actual props, brass hinges are the order of the day. And so, this is the most fragile part since the Tricorder’s body is made of resin (unlike the Master replicas and eFX which are heavy die-casts). In this case, the brass hinges are to slot into the thin slit (yellow). A normal MkIX/ X from Stapleton would mean you need to screw the brass hinges into the resin body and then putty it up. So, in this case, I might need to use JB Welds and/or Aves Apoxie to secure the hinge as strong as what I think possible.
Do note that when you have completed this Tricorder or any other Tricorders, please do not flip them open like what Kirk would do with his Communicator.
This was the feedback I got from JLCPCB as I wanted to try their 3D Printing Services. The rest areas for them, are a cause of concern since the thickness was less than 0.8mm. They mentioned that this would have a high risk of deformation, crack and loss. I sheepishly replied that I have no means to modify the file (since I am still a noob with 3D software) and that I trust their judgement to go ahead with the print.
This is the bottom view of the Main Body’s internals. The space for the LCD (yellow) is very model specific LCD frame and you would need to get the said LCD from Adafruit. When the 3D body reaches me, I hope to find a workaround on this. The second issue would be the blue area which houses the Upper Board PCB. Arky’s PCB design has some SMD components on the upper surface of the double-sided PCB apart from the LEDs. This would mean an additional gap of about 2mm from the LED to the decal. So if you place a diffusing material between the decal and the hole, the LED light would be diffused and covers the whole intended hole/s. But this is just a theory anyway since I wanted the upper surface of the PCB to be as flat as possible with only the SMD LEDS protruding within the designed holes. Without gaps, the LEDs might create hot-spots within the diffusing material.
The front of the Main Body might be an issue for me as far as clear parts (orange) are concerned. They might come off. So, I might need someone to when they re-cast (ahem) the printed part with clear resin, to put a transparent sheet behind which act as some anchor from within the main body. I was hoping to use the two indents (yellow) as holes for speakers where in the near future, the Tricorder has (non-Stereo) sound. As for the Blue area, this is the concern where I would need to measure the two round holes. if they are what they are, I might then be able to have a flatter PCB but with some modifications to the two LEDs. Instead of the 0805 rectangle ones, I might have to source for those rare round Osrams.
THE LOWER INTERFACE
Most of the the TR-595E’s controls are located here, in the Lower Interface. The (in my own description) ALPHA, BETA, GAMMA & DELTA green animated rectangles are located on the far right. I cannot wait for the printed parts to arrive as I need to determine the available space within.
With the piece acting as a natural light block, only allowing lights through the holes, you can tell that it will look fantastic. See the lower right area which is meant for the EMRG buttton? There is a lot of space in there and if the speaker’s sound is too low, I might need to add some kind of silver or gun metal greeblie in there, essentially making it some kind of a speaker grille.
This image is upside down but I cannot blame JLCPCB. Only those who knows about the TR-595E will notice it. Anyway, the red are again is a cause for concern for them but, I think it is OK to me. This piece will become the cover for the actual lower flap. I really like this piece (and so, I ordered two)
THE DOOR
This was the original door. It has a round indentation to house a round magnet disk so that when you pull the cover open, the Tricorder would start ‘working’. I noticed the ‘ID’ button, in one form or another, does exist from the MkVI, MkVII, Mk IX/X, and to the OSX Tricorders and so, I tried to make a hole for it digitally. After trying with Blender for a bit and failing, I could not make a square hole for the ID button which is located on the bottom right of the door.
So I communicated with Nicholas on 23.06.2022 who so had already planned for it long ago. The file was then uploaded as revised Door called…. Door 5.1 (ID Cutout)
And so, in less than 24 hours later, JLCPCB informed me of their concern. Again, I told them to do their best.
