Well, this is great! JLCPCB delivered the 3D printed parts in just under 10 days! I was quite taken aback since the eta was between 10 to 18 days. It was one heck of a very good first impression. For a first ‘Professional’ 3D print, JLCPCB has met more than just my expectations.
THE UNBOXING
When the parcel arrived in the evening, we were surprised because I do not recall purchasing anything so… ‘big’. Unwrapping the plastic bag, I was a little concerned when I saw the FRAGILE sticker. Still it turned out to be an unexpected surprise which literally kept me awake the whole night.
Sneaking this in to the office the next day, I was able to examine the contents in a much better privacy. Yes, this is the parcel of 3D Printed parts from JLCPCB which takes an average of 48 hours printing time.
Then again, I have to assume that the 3D Printing Service just started and this was their box for the moment.
THE FIRST SIGHTINGS
Let’s take a look at the contents in the box. Before we start, you have to remember that this is Mr. Nicholas Duchette’s TR-595E Tricorder which he through his Fusion360. He has also kindly uploaded all the files into his Github Repository. I downloaded them, and sent the 3D files to JLCPCB to get it printed. So, if there are any issues, JLCPCB did their best and followed my instructions to the letter.
There are some points which I would like to update to the Author while going through the parts. And to be honest, my hands are still trembling while holding the 3D prints. Although it is white and so hard to take pictures of, the surface of the print is quite smooth although there are some noticeable faint print lines. and whatever Mr Duchette did, the TR-595E was a beauty to hold.
Right off, I would like to suggest a modest inward dimple or oval near the angled lip so that I can open the Tricorder more easily. The Original Mk IX or X has a ribbed triangle instead.
But the TR-595E’s wall, as far as I can recall, has straight walls and its body is much thinner height-wise.
I try not to use too much SuperGlue or CA, eventually when I do cast them, I would insert a clear backing which will act as gluing anchor from the inside of the Tricorder’s body.
I have to insert the brass hinges into these two thin slits. I would also have to find a way to make them stay in there without using SuperGlue.
It is not an issue because the gaps can be filled with putty. Here is an idea:
Order ore than one panel, fit the cover with magnets and the underside of the panels with metal. The you have an interchangeable Interface and also, ‘Serviceable’ area to ‘play’ with.
THE MEASUREMENT
Now comes the more interesting part. I wan to see how close the circuit boards are in relation to the printed parts. This is because, using the information from Mr. Duchette’s files, I am planning to create my own PCBs to have more blinking lights.
The LEDs on my modified PCB printout matches the Lower Interface panel and I have to move the four function LEDs (right) back to the left by about 1mm. There is now a square hole for the ID button since this is the latest 3D file. The round cavity is for 8mm by 3mm magnets, which is not an issue as I can order them.
Looking at this image again, perhaps the loose strip can be part of the Main Body’s cover instead. And this little extrusion will always tell you which way the cover must be inserted.
And so, there you have it, Folks. The 3D prints from JLC PCB is superb and it gave me the confidence to continue with the PCB modifications. The next issue it to colour match the paint of the Mk IX or X since the Plastikote 7173 has been discontinued for a very long time and I will try to get some locally sourced 2K or 4K spray cans. But that will be another story for another time.
