I’ve always wanted a PKD Blaster for decades. Scouring through Forum such as theRPF showed me that the only way to get one is to buy a real metal kit, either from the late Sid or Richard A. Coyle. There are alternatives such as resin ones from Rick Ross. And you can even get ready moade ones from the Tomenosuke brand and even a water pistol version from Takagi. All is well and fine but there is one little problem, which would be our ever vigilant Royal Malaysian Customs who will confiscate any object that resembles a weapon. Plus, depending on the evidence and circumstances at hand, deliver you to the Police.
Finally, there is also the main issue to what do I do with it if I got it? I cannot bring it out of the house, talk about it and I am sure, even my Wife would not appreciate having such object in my collection. I mean, it does look more like a gun and not Sci-Fi. It’s as much fun as waving my NERF blaster around in the house. After reviewing these points, I have come to the sad conclusion that the only reason I wanted one was because of the LEDs in there.
Inside the Blaster’s Clip, there are 5 LEDs; 4 red 3mm and one red 5mm. Which is not an issue as there were so many solutions. I have finally settled my own demons on this and have let it go.
The Bad news
Years later, when I am in Zen with the Blaster, a Facebook friend, wanted to have the red LEDs ‘glow up’ when it is switched on. And so, the only way to do this is to either I design an off the shelf circuit which can turn bulky or, use a micro-controller. I have seen and watched the progress on the FB Group where the solution would be to use an Arduino solution or rather, a Pico Pi. He is building a 3D printed blaster, from a source which I have seen before. It was modeled by one Mr. Anders Fogde Pedersen aka AndersFP and uploaded to thingiverse.
Challenge Accepted
No, this is not official or anything. I just want to see if the circuit can be powered from a CR2032 coin cell and for how long. The CR2032, is a 3v battery with an average 225 mAH capacity that comes with a 10mA output. In most cases, a lot of electronics using this battery were car remotes meaning it can last for a long time. But for the Blaster, where the electronics are switched on for longer times, and so, this is very different.
With the Blaster having 5 LEDs at say, 20mA each, we’re talking about a current consumption between 100mA to 140mA (including the Green LEDs). While the Pico Pi can operate between 1.8v and 5.5v, the Microchip PIC on the other hand operates between 2.0v and 5.5v. The only advantage is that I can design the whole circuit around the PIC. The same can be done with the Pico’s own RP2040 (but man, the chip is huge compared to the PIC).
My plan is to use the microchip PIC for lighting the blaster and at the same time use PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) to prolong battery life. Also, I would be toning down the LEDs to about 10mA instead of the maximum 20mA, which is not only bright but shortens the LED’s lifespan. In my experience, the Red and phosphorus-based LEDs such as White is quite noticeable even at 10mA.
What happens after that?
I suppose once the prototype is finalised, I can go for a run. But you see, there is already a solution on the market by DUplex Designs in the form of a kit. Furthermore, my FB friend has moved one with his Pico Pi too. So, in truth, not many would be printing a 3D PKD Blaster and so, it would be very difficult to sell them. Maybe I’ll just use them for my own 3D Blaster, that is, if I plan to print one, which can cost quite a bit. I have yet to reach out to the original author, AndersFP, where I based my circuit board design on his 3D file. His kit is being sold at Tip Top Workshop too.
Progress Notes
20240505 Lighting for the AndersFP Blaster Pt.01
20240511 Lighting for the AndersFP Blaster Pt.02
20240514 Lighting for the AndersFP Blaster Pt.03
20240527 Lighting for the AndersFP Blaster Pt.04
20240602 Lighting for the AndersFP Blaster Pt.05
Where to get what:
AndersFP (Anders Fogde Pedersen) PKD-2019 Blaster Download File
