The second version of the Razor Crest’s engine program is completed. And I am also getting wary when it comes to fitting the PCBs again and again. This is because I always forget to trim the inner parts of the engine pods which causes the board to be pushed to one side. And when you force close (No, not THAT Force) the engines, the plastic can easily push the fragile 0802 out of its solder and destroys it.
THE 0802 LED
If you have seen a normal 0805 LED, the 0802 is thinner. And fragile. I will have to add in the note to remind everyone to file out some plastic parts within the engine BEFORE gluing all four parts. They can cause the board to stick to one side and won’t let you close it properly. Forcing the engine halves close will definitely destroy the LEDs. For me, it’s OK since I don’t mind all that re-soldering stuff but for others, this can be a real pain for others who has never worked with SMDs or even know how to solder.
DIFFUSING THE ENGINES
My go to draft paper does not work. If it put it between the clear part and the engine detail, the tight tolerance does not allow for it. And if I put it between the circuit board and the clear part, I worry about the LEDs browning (not burning) it in the long run. Plus, the paper’s rigidity does not help in keeping it in place neither.
WHICH ONE IS BRIGHTER?
Version 2 is supposed to be brighter since I moved the values slightly higher. Alas, the result was the same. I tried using digital camera to help me since to my eyes, both were equally bright. So, the only solutions left are:
1. Increase the numbers in software (might not make much significant difference, as proven in version 2), or
2. Increase the current consumption from 100mA to its original maximum spec of 150mA.
But after looking at the engines once again, I think they look OK. I won’t know until the whole model is painted.
THE VIDEO
Anyway, here is the video. My Huawei behaved itself today and you can say most of the effect is almost accurate.
