While waiting for the new PCBs to arrive, I am going to tackle the next stage of the Razor Crest, which is to understand how shiny the model needs to be. We know that the original basic 3D model was covered in aluminum foil and then weathered. However, as the show progressed the it got dirtier and shinier, then dirtier and so on. Recreating the exact weathering is way above my skillset which is just basic gluing of parts. Please excuse me for the following post as these are some of the reference images I would be using (out of the 40-plus I took from both Seasons).
I would not advise you to follow me on this one since I have no clue on what I am doing.
RAZOR CREST IN THE COLD
This would be the very first Razor Crest image that welcomed the Mandalorian Fans. So, cold surface are never shiny as it has a layer or frost or ice.
RAZOR CREST DURING THE DAY
The Razor Crest’s overall skin is just bare metal apart from the worn yellow paint. It has a various degree of sheen, tints and most of all, accumulated grime. In certain episodes, you can see how the model (and CGI version) interacted with the background where bright lighting is concerned. So, reproducing this effect is a very challenging endeavour since I do not have much experience with paints, more so when it comes to metallics and weathering.
In this image, you can see that the ship reflects the background.
Notice some panels are darker and there are some highlighted details.
SIDE PANELS
In most episodes, the sides does not reflect well compared to the curved or extended surfaces. Its like having a dirty mirror, which could be fun when it comes to weathering.
However, in almost every shot of the Razor Crest, its sides are never that reflective. It will bounce off the background colours but it cannot show the details like a mirror.
The only constant were the damaged yellow paint.
THE RAZOR CREST NOSE
Coming to the front of the craft, there are two things I want to hightlight. First would be the pair of tiny red ‘chin’ lights. The two round outer bevels are very beautiful yet able to produce lighting effect larger then its diameter. One solution would be to swap the diffused lens of the red LEDs with a clear lens. The result would be brighter but you’d need to align it a lot since it has a very narrow viewing angle. In most cases, I can predict that you’d never achieve 100% result with the proposed design of the upcoming PCB.
To recreate the exact weathering is not a good idea since they kind of change a little from episodes to episodes each time the craft was repaired or underwent maintenance.
CONTINUITY?
One of the reasons I am going with my own weathering style and not keeping to 100% accuracy is that the ship has gone through a lot of changes and maintenance. To me, as long as it has reflective chrome or aluminum, I am happy. On any show, there would be subtle changes to props and costumes so this is no different. Heck, even the interior cargo bay lighting changed between seasons.
NEXT… THE PAINT TESTS
A bit too adventurous? Well, these are the Chrome/ Silver or Aluminum paints I have and can get in Malaysia at this point in time. The Modo MK08 is distribution issues while the Mr. Hobby Plate Silver Next is actually out of production and it was a stroke of luck I managed to snag the last three bottles. The only paint not available would be the fragile Alclad Chrome and also, the Molotow.
It does sound silly but realistically, it exposes my inexperience with scale model painting. It is quite rare for me to reach the painting stage for every models I performed R&D on. My aim is to seal all these paints with a clear coat which I can then weather with oils, pigments and enamels. If I made a mistake, I can wipe it away without affecting the shiny metallic surface below. It does sound impossible and I do not expect to succeed but rather, compromise at the end of the day. I have spoken to a few and we do agree that the aggressive lacquer clear coats will destroy the shine. Clear acrylics and enamels on the other hand, despite the slim chances, might be able to provide what Iam looking for. Although they are not as robust as lacquers, like what the other have told me, I need to experiment.
I am very sure there are other paints out there but I need to draw the line if I want to make the June deadline.
Foreground (L-R): Mr. Color SM206 Super Chrome Silver 2, Mr. Metal Color MC218 Aluminum and Mr. Color 159 Super Silver.
The Mr. Hobby SM08 has the same separated layers like Hobbymate’s but while taking photos of them, I discovered I had kept the paint upside down.
