20240802 Lighting for the AndersFP Blaster Pt.08

You know, I was supposed to get this version 5.01 out by last weekend but I did not. This was because in the Forum, some did ask about if the PCB can be used in a Tomenosuke Blaster. At that time, I was not too confident about this after a short chat with another Blade Runner fan, there is no one we know of in Malaysia who owns a Tomenosuke. Even if they did, they’re not going to tell nor would be willing to loan it to me. Owning a Gun be it a replica or an airsoft, etc, is illegal.

The Bacta Measurements

Finally, I did reach out in the TheRPF Forum if anyone could answer my questions. One member, by the name of Bacta came up with the answers before the day was over. After looking at it, I was quite disappointed that the measurements between a Tomenosuke and the AndersFP were quite different. Anything more than 0.3mm can be a problem since I designed the PCB based on the AndersFP files.

After a few days, I did the measuring again. And this time, I wrote everything down rather than keeping it in my head. I can solve the positioning of the 4 red LEDs by bending the leads which then allows them to be ‘flexible’. Then I also realised that the main issue, which is the distance between the switch and the bottom LED has a difference of less than 1mm. In theory, the user can file the switch slot forward by 0.9mm. That is, it they want to.

The Changes

I did make more changes to the design because of the problems I had with the Ghost PCB and also, the Tomenosuke issue.

The 4 LEDs
Rather than soldering the Right Side of the two red LEDs, I decided to leave them as free floating. This gives the PCB the potential to fit into other Blasters other than the AndersFP version. In the manual I would also show how to modify the board should the holes be too far apart (like the Rick Ross version)
The Battery
Although the red and green uses the 1.8volts and 2.2volts respectively, I do notice some subtle dimming when the CR2032 coin cell reaches 3.0volts. This was just bad new since I thought the battery could power on effectively until it reaches below 3.0volts. So I am going to change the battery to the higher 3.7volts Lithium Polymers (LiPo). So I have put in two types of JST connectors hoping whichever battery your guys purchase their connectors would fit (hopefully). A theorectical battery size of 35mm x 15mm x 7mm might just do the trick. For that size, we’re looking at maybe 250mAh to 300mAh.
The Extra Connectors
Why? I am not too sure too. But in the Forum, there were question about putting sound in the Blaster. So, this little connector, which gives 3.7volts the moment the slide switch is activated, is for powering the sound circuit. For the moment, I am not doing this since I do not have a Blaster for R&D to determine the available space for a speaker.
That Blinky LED
Why not? Just for fun, I have put a small blinking SMD LED so when you remove the Clip, you can see it blinking. But the slide switch must be ON, of course. This is mostly a bad influence I had when I was watching Star Trek the Next Generation where when certain props were removed or detached, they still have blinking lights.