To be honest, every year, this hits me right out of the blue as if I had forgotten this very important day. But in reality, I did forget, not because I forgot forgot but on the very day, I had a lot of Family things happening. The only thing that got me going was that my Wife had requested me to fill in the vintage Ikea Detolf Cabinets (which we only set up after a decade in storage) with my Models. Yes, I had to hear it a few more times because it was the first time she acknowledged and wanted me to display my… things. So, for the best part of Sunday, I have started to repair and evaluate my… things.
Just shelf it
One of the ideas I had since long ago, was to display some electronic circuits inside a 3D photo frame. And not just any electronics. I’ve been a fan of Mr. Gerhard Mros since I discovered his electronics for the MkVII Playmates Tricorder in late 90’s. You can call it long-distance mentoring and he’s been taking me to school since then and even now. At the same time, I too was trying to make my own too but the electronics was just too big. Also, at the same time, I realised the very ‘LED chaser’ electronic kits I have soldered pre-college days was quite relevant for Star Trek props.
After saving up and buying his first kit, I was introduced to the World of SMD (Surface Mount Devices) and suddenly, the problem of fighting for space with my circuits disappeared. Which brought me to my next hurdle, which was costly printed circuit board manufacturing demanding obscene MOQs but with time and effort, this was seeing the light of day. By sheer luck, I discovered JLCPCB which could do whatever I wanted and even more. The only issue I had left was the sound for the Tricorder.
Once again, Mr. Mros taught me a lot with his latest electronics.
Remember the 8th September
Which brings me to today. There was a reason why I delayed doing this project, namely because once it is done, there is no place to display it. OK, so I was lazy and put my efforts to other things. But I reasoned that (still oblivious to today’s relevance) that we now have a place, and if I don’t do it now, it’s going to be what it was for the past few years; in pieces while I wished I was done. So, pushing myself and countering every excuses in my mind, it was done. Not 100% but hey, it’s there.
gmprops MkOSX (aka TR-990) Electronics
Despite being firmly held up, the stiff wire-wrapping wires do break off. While transferring them to the new Ikea Photo Frame, I had to resolder or make new connections to two lost wires. To me this is the equivalent of a small area of Prop Restoration.
I got this in the late 2010’s from an eBay seller who included it with the Roddenberry MkOSX Tricorder Kit. Mr. Gerhard Mros offered to replace the kit as his electronics does not fit since it was designed for his own version of the Mk OSX. I politely declined since it was not his fault and at the same time, I really loved his work. This is also the most ‘busiest’ Tricorder due to the multiple blinking lights. For many years, I set it up onto a makeshift plastic board and switched it on once in a while. These boards will not go into any Tricorder (as it does not fit) but to a more presentable casing.
What is so interesting about this circuit is that it does not use the typical 555/4017 ‘running lights’ circuit. For this special board, I do not want to learn from it because I need to define a point or stage where I have to stop learning and use my own solutions. If I keep copying stuff, I am no better than a resin recaster.
I got this image from ES Electra Store and used option #1. The top pair OUT & GND provides 5volts and goes to the Tricorder circuit. The middle pair BAT & GND connects to the LiPo battery while the bottom GND & VIN connected to a USB power source an din my case, I will connect it to a Qi Wireless Receiver coil. That is, as soon as I can find them, which is lost somewhere among the boxes.
The MH-CD42 Lipo Charger
(Image courtesy of ES Electra Store)
I have forgotten why it needed 6 volts but it sounds reasonable during the turn of the century. Except that I do not have any solutions for that unless I want to go back to using four bulky AA or AAA batteries. The next best thing was to jury rig a 3.7volt LiPo system to boost to 5volts. And after tinkering (OK, refurbishing) the circuit boards, I got it working. Because I wanted a push-button (and not a latching touch switch to conserve battery), I used the MH-CD42 module. It not only charges the Lipo battery (I hope) but also has LED indicators for the battery’s status.
Live Long and Prosper
The thought of using the eFX MkX Tricorder did pop into my mind but I want to do this. And finally, it is done. Once I find the Wireless Qi receiver and also, the USB-C connector, I’ll take a video.
Live Long and Prosper
(Nope, not going to remove the protective plastic yet)
Today is the 9th September and after coming back, I realised I’ve forgotten about disconnecting the LiPo battery. And so, it has been feeding minute amount of power to the circuit. The whole MkOSX Tricorder had some very dimly lit LEDs when I arrived at my room during dusk. I guess this is due to the charger module. Anyway, I am going to let it as it is, and see how long the 1000mAh LiPo can last.
And so, the two gmsprops’s Tricorder boards are now mounted inside the Ikea’s Hovsta Photo Frame. It is a very simple exercise but ti still took me decades. I do not see myself ever building the beautifully casted Roddenberry.com Endgame Tricorder. As for the MkVII, I do have a few Playmates Toys which I might want to mount it but there is still the front sensor detailing and also, the lightblocking solution for the screen to do.
What’d you need
The main components for this is… just a battery. But you will need to know what type of battery or to be precise, the circuit’s working voltage. I have forgotten the working voltage for the Endgame Tricorder but it did work well with 3x AA batteries. That would be 4.5volts and so, 5volts does not hurt. As for the MkVII Tricorder, it came with a LiPo battery, which means, it does work with 3.7volts.
However, I am aiming for a very light power system and so, I am looking at LiPo batteries. I do have a specific LiPo charger which also boosts the battery’s 3.7volts to 5volts. And to top it off, it comes with a push-button and a set of LED indicators to show the LiPo battery’s state of charge. Last but not least, when it comes to charging the LiPo batteries, I do not want to connect them to a USB cable of sorts. And so, if I can find the receiver coils, I will be using Qi Wireless chargers.
The two Systems side by side and if you look at the TR-990 (aka MkOSX aka Endgame) Tricorder, there are some very dimly lit LEDs when the LiPo chager is on standby mode. I suspect I might have soldered one of the wires wrongly. Even after a few days, the LiPo battery is still fully charged.
The MkVII Tricorder (left) is very bright, no thanks to the 5volts power I’ve given it. But i was too excited to notice this until too late.
This is the back of the MkVII Playmates Tricorder. I used the micro switch to replace the reed switch. This switch will simulate the opening and closing of the Tricorder’s lower flap. I do not want a latching switch as over time, the Tricorder warble can be a bit annoying. Later on, I will use a normal charger board which outputs 3.7volt instead of 5volts.
Anyway, here is the video
Do you want to build your own Tricorder?
You can still get the Electronics from Mr. Gerhard Mros. Just shoot him an email at gmros77@gmail.com.
And for the Tricorder Shells, you can get them from Mr. Myron Stapleton at https://www.facebook.com/myron.stapleton
