I have downloaded the 3D software called FreeCAD and had a go on it. One good thing I can say is that thank goodness for the Internet. The Youtubes and Websites did help me get through some of the issues. The issue is that this is a 3D software and my mind automatically reverts to whatever experience it gained from using SketchUp. I had to fight that impulse for the better part of the day and it was quite exasperating.
One example is like when you enter KFC for a cup of Pepsi but they gave you Coke. Or, that uneasy feeling learning to drive a manual car after having driven an auto all the time. And the result is more of less the same; you get your drink and you get to travel. The only difference is that the process to achieve the result made me get out of my comfort zone. SketchUp lets you build a decent digital model in minutes. I had to use about one day with FreeCAD to get the same results.
THE FRONT ARRAY PIECE
One of the main reason is that I want to add a new 3D piece to the TR-595E. The front array, like the Mk IX and the Mk X, has three translucent pieces (greeblies) which needs to be glued to the body. You insert them into the window, glue the sides and hope it does not fall off. And the very part at the bottom is what worries me. The idea is to create a flat thin translucent piece where the three greeblies are attaced to it.
All one has to do is to slide in the piece and pivot it to match the inner side angle of the main body. The three greeblies would protrude out of their windows and help align the whole piece. The final piece is the PCB which you can align it from behind. I can mount the whole assembly with some epoxy or even, putty. For my case, I cannot use hot-melt glue as the 3D printed resin has a 56ºC melting point.
THE CASTING MASTER
There are a few ways to achieve this goal. With the three greeblies in my hands, I can go old skool which is to create a master for clear resin casting. The other would be to 3D print a master and use it for clear resin casting. The two solutions uses resin casting where in theory, they are much more robust. The part’s shape will definitely need a very complicated 2-piece mold. The third alternative is to have the part 3D printed with clear resin.
In a nutshell, 3D resin printing depositing the resin material and then becomes hard with UV light. The 3D part needs to use clear resin. The question is, how do I make sure it does not react with post-printing UV light (aka The Sun)? And like most resin over time, will it turn yellowish or brown? And will they become brittle over time? These questions makes me want to go for the more expensive resin casting route.
In theory, it would be able to slide into the main body and come out from the three windows. I can’t even answer why it turned green when I exported the image, I should have screenshot it instead.
Anyway, once the hinges have arrived, I foresee that the Main Body and the Flap would need solid resin blocks for the screws to dig into.
